I will take you on a journey of discovering the most impressive area in the historic center of Rome: the Parione neighborhood.
Right in the heart of the Eternal City, this rione – which is the name used since ancient times by the Romans to refer to the city’s neighborhoods – is home to the most incredible works of art dotting the open-air museum that is Rome.
Think Piazza Navona, with Bernini’s fountain and the Baroque church of Sant’Agnese in Agone.
And then there is Piazza Campo de’ Fiori, the historic site of the city market.
This article is an itinerary of these and many other attractions on the streets of the Parione neighborhood. I recommend a camera and comfortable shoes; there is so much to visit and just as much to capture in shots that will prove unique, even if, like me, you are not an experienced photographer.
And don’t worry, I will also recommend delicacies that will send your palate into ecstasy.
Best things to see in the Parione neighborhood in Rome
Rione Parione is the 6th rione of the city of Rome. The rioni divide the city into twenty-two neighborhoods within the Aurelian walls and have with ancient origins.
It seems that the term “Parione” derives from “paries,” which means “wall” in Latin, referring to the vast walls of a building located there, possibly belonging to the Stadium of Domitian, from Roman times.
Here are my favorite places in Parione, which I am sure will also become yours.
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1. Piazza Campo dei Fiori
The place that really cannot miss at the top of the list is Campo de Fiori. Its history dates back to the Middle Ages when the square was used precisely as a fruit, vegetable, and flower-selling market.
To tell the truth, Campo de Fiori was also the scene of particularly significant historical events as the centuries passed. In the 1600s, the square was used for public execution. As a reminder, in the center of the square, today stands the famous hooded and cloaked statue representing the philosopher Giordano Bruno, who was burned there because of his ideas that were considered heretical.
The atmosphere of resistance and freedom of thought in Campo dei Fiori are not the only two souls of the place.
From Monday to Saturday, from early morning until early afternoon, the square hosts the vegetable and fruit market. The Campo dei Fiori market today has two souls: the traditional one, made up of the locals who come here to do their shopping, and the tourist one, made up of the stalls selling prepared and packaged products directed to a traveling public.
It is up to you to unearth the stalls of the Roman greengrocers who have been working here for generations….
The square is famous not only for its markets but also for being the backdrop for famous Italian and other films. If you are a passionate cinephile, it will be easy to recognize the angles of the most diverse movies set in Rome, starting right from Mario Bonnard’s eponymous Campo de Fiori from 1943.
2. Via dei Giubbonari St.
Let’s clarify: if you find yourself in Campo de Fiori there are two other mandatory stops you need to catch. The first involves shopping.
One of the narrow streets that converge at Campo dei Fiori is Via dei Giubbonari St., one of Rome’s shopping streets. Here you will find clothes, shoes, and accessories, but there are also souvenir stores. If you want to take home some of the delicacies of the Roman countryside, such as cheese, pay a visit to the shop Cacio della Campagna Romana.
Via dei Giubbonari takes its name from the artisans who have inhabited its stores since ancient times: true masters of corsets and bodices, called in Latin “jupponarii.”
3. Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara
A two-minute walk from the square, passing it and taking Via dei Giubbonari, another small court will open up on your left, called Largo dei Librari, because book merchants once lived here.
This little square is home to one of the favorite venues for Roman street food lovers: Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara.
Here, the signature dish is the deep-fried cod fillets. It’s easy enough to spot; the sign reads Filetti di Baccalà in big letters. You can’t go wrong. You can eat them at the table or take them away; the important thing is that if you happen to be in the neighborhood, don’t let them get away!
Watch out for the hours because it is only open in the afternoon and evening, from 5 PM to 10:30 PM.
Move now to Piazza Navona, one of the most beautiful squares in the world. The first thing that will jump out at you is the riot of Baroque architecture and art.
In the center of the square stands the majestic Fountain of the Four Rivers, a masterpiece of Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s artistic genius. Every time I stand there, a magnetic force draws me in and causes me to spend endless moments gazing at its details.
Bernini gave birth to it between 1648 and 1650 to represent the most important rivers in the known world at the time: the Nile, the Ganges, the Danube, and the Rio de la Plata. Each river is personified by a colossal marble statue and is crowned by an Egyptian obelisk, surmounted by the dove of the coat of arms of the papal Pamphili family, who commissioned the fountain.
At the edges of the square, there are two other fountains. In front of Palazzo Barberini is the Fountain of the Moor, so called because a sculpture of an Ethiopian battling a dolphin is in the center. The fountain is the work of Jacopo dalla Porta, 16th century, but the Pope had it renovated in the 17th century, adding the central sculpture.
The Fountain of Neptune is also from the 16th century, and it was a simple marble basin at that time. In the 19th century, the City of Rome called for projects to renovate the fountain. The winning architects created groups of sculptures on the fountain’s edge and the central statue, representing the god Neptune holding an octopus at bay with his trident.
5. Church of St. Agnese in Agone
In Piazza Navona, you cannot overlook the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. Legend has it that it rose on the western side of the square in the eighth century AD on the very spot where the young Christian girl Agnes, to whom the church is dedicated, was tortured during Diocletian’s persecutions.
Later, in 1600, it was torn down to be rebuilt according to the pontiff’s wishes, and the complete restoration was commissioned to Francesco Borromini.
The magnificence of the dome of this church, I am sure, will leave you breathless. The first time I entered, I did not expect it. The colors penetrate you like energetic discharges, and the warmth of the hues of the frescoes leaves the observer with a feeling of awe that is hard to replicate. I don’t want to reveal too many details, but I recommend that you stay for a few minutes face up to admire all its beauty, unearthing every tiny detail.
One of the things that fascinated me most was learning that the square was flooded to entertain and refresh Romans in centuries past. It was an exceptional practice lasting more than 200 years between the 17th and 19th centuries. On weekends in August, water would be allowed to overflow from the Fountain of the Four Rivers and the Roman people would flock to cool off and dance, as on the steps of the church, musicians would perform.
These are only some of the reasons why Parione is one of the most interesting neighborhoods of Rome.
6. Stadium of Domitian
Dwell on Piazza Navona again. The most interesting anecdote of its history is that before it was a square, it was a stadium, hence the elongated shape. About 4 meters below the road surface, in 86 AD, Emperor Domitian inaugurated Rome’s first masonry stadium dedicated to nonviolent athletic disciplines (as opposed to the fierce games in the Colosseum).
The archaeological area of the stadium is now an underground museum you can visit; find info on the official website.
Speaking of Piazza Navona, I want to tell you about a curious detail, which the historical tenant of Piazza Navona 34, a lady in her 80s who knows her stuff, revealed to me. On the second floor of number 34, you will notice a small white marble head embedded in the wall in the square.
Legend has it that in the second half of the 1500s, the Pope liked to dress as a commoner and walk the streets of Rome. One day, sitting at the tavern at number 34, he heard the innkeeper complaining about the new taxes recently introduced by the Pope himself. Upon opening his tavern the next day, the innkeeper found a guillotine in front of the entrance. He was delighted because, alas, in those days, the practice of beheading was synonymous with grand spectacle and, consequently, with a large influx of consumers at the inn. Despite himself, he discovered that the guillotine was there for him: his complaints the day before had not been appreciated at all by the Pope, who decided to behead him. The next day, his most loyal customers commissioned a sculptor to reproduce his face, which was then set within the palace walls as if to guard his beloved tavern. Now that you know this story, you will surely notice it if you pass by.
7. Vallicelliana Library
Moving northward from Piazza Navona, you can cross on Via della Chiesa Nuova St., one of the most evocative places in rione Parione: the Vallicelliana Library. This monumental building is located within the complex of the Oratorio dei Filippini, part of the Church of Santa Maria in Vallicella. It, too, is the work of Borromini.
If you need to improve with the Italian language, don’t worry; the books it contains will be just one of the many wonders that will capture your attention. Certainly, however, one of the library’s main attractions is the first edition of Dante’s Divine Comedy printed in Florence in 1481, which arrived there after the oratory opened in 1500. I must admit that I was very excited to see it.
8. Via del Governo Vecchio St.
A few steps away from the Vallicelliana Library is Via del Governo Vecchio St., an obligatory stop whenever I pass through Parione. It connects Piazza dell’Orologio with Piazza di Pasquino and is dotted with little stores, stores, and historic buildings that hold ancient secrets and legends.
For example, in fact, at number 66 Via del Governo Vecchio, there is the most miniature house in Rome, consisting of only one floor and a single small window overlooking the street. Today it is no longer a dwelling, but a very nice shop.
The road belongs to two neighborhoods, in fact, from Piazza Pasquino to the intersection with Via Corallo belongs to Parione, but continuing to Piazza dell’Orologio, you already enter Ponte.
9. Piazza di Pasquino
Walking down Via del Governo Vecchio St. you will come to a small square to which two other streets enter. There is a building that makes a corner; at its foot, you will find a marble pedestal with an ancient sculpture that has not come in one piece to the present day.
The story of this sculpture is a glimpse into 16th-century Roman society.
The Statue of Pasquino represents one of the most famous “talking statues” of the city. It was unhearted during the pontificate of Pope Alexander VI, in year 1501. The statue, a damaged piece of Hellenistic sculpture, was named after a local tailor, Pasquino, known for his wit.
It quickly became a symbol of Roman satire; Romans began to attach anonymous notes critiquing or poking fun at public figures, especially the papacy and the government, to the statue.
This tradition of affixing pasquinades (satirical poems or lampoons) turned Pasquino into a precursor to modern social commentary and political protest. Despite attempts by authorities to curb this practice, it has persisted for centuries, reflecting the Roman populace’s enduring spirit of critique and dissent.
That’s why, despite its damaged aspect, it is one of Rome’s most famous sculptures.
10. Supplizio – street food shop
If all this walking has made you a little peckish, I recommend another one of those must-visit places if you are in Parione: Supplizio!
It is one of the best places where you can enjoy real Roman street food, starting, of course, with supplì of every taste and type, passing by the amazing zucchini flowers, without forgetting the legendary crocchette.
Being street food, I recommend you choose your favorite fried food and enjoy it nice and steaming among the cobbled streets of the Parione neighborhood, to live a real Roman experience at 360°.
Where to stay in Parione
With all the bustle of travelers, many venues for eating and drinking, and fascinating architecture, Parione is one of the best areas for solo travelers in Rome.
Here are some places to stay away from the hubbub but at the same time close to everything.
Sleeping in Parione can be a timeless experience. I was a guest at two different facilities a few years ago, and I would like to tell you about them here to give you a small taste of what you can find.
The first is the Navona Theatre Hotel, a boutique hotel within the walls of a palace built in the 1500s by Bufalini, which has been a real theater since the 1600s. Today, you can still admire the vaults and some precious details. It is located very close to Piazza Navona and Piazza di Campo De Fiori, the two main attractions of rione Parione.
Have a look at the rooms and latest prices for this hotel
Bio Hotel Raphaël
If you are looking for a luxurious, bougainvillea-scented stay, Bio Hotel Raphaël is the place for you.
Also in a historic structure and behind Piazza Navona, this hotel welcomes you with a facade unique to be found anywhere in central Rome, covered in American vines and wisteria.
The two jewels in the structure’s crown are the works of art housed inside – Mirò, De Chirico, and Picasso are just some of the artists you can admire there – and the bio concept behind it.
Since its first renovations, the owners have made eco-friendly green building choices, carrying on the mission to respect the environment, even in the kitchen. The hotel restaurant, which overlooks the rooftops of the Parione district with a wonderful 360-degree view, is known and appreciated for offering organic, vegan, and biodynamic cuisine.
Check photos and latest rates for this facility
Wrap-up
To conclude this guide to one of what I consider to be the best areas to stay in Rome the first time, I would like to add yet another exhortation to visit the Parione neighborhood.
I know that especially travelers who are in Rome for a very short time, perhaps one or two days, tend to skip a visit to this neighborhood.
Take the advice of a local: the Piazza Navona alone deserves as much attention as the Colosseum. Not to mention the streets and alleys that surround this square, so full of ancient buildings and bistros and stores all to be discovered.
To top it all off, the food that locals love to eat most, that is, Roman street food, is here found in its best forms and in places less known to tourists.
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