In the last 10 years or so, the village of Civita di Bagnoregio in northern Lazio has become a destination for an increasingly international tourism. Witnessing this evolution firsthand has surprised me. I wonder if Civita di Bagnoregio is worth visiting, in reference to a traveler coming from afar. I have visited this town several times because it is located a few kilometers from where I live.
I am sure that every ancient village in Italy (and therefore practically all of them) is worthy of attention and holds wonders. And Civita, in particular, stands out in a landscape with very rare characteristics for Italy.
This landscape has inspired artists, photographers, and filmmakers. But whether the view of this landscape is truly worth planning a trip or a considerable detour for is something to ponder.
Even I, who live nearby and love it, have not returned after visiting it three times. In this post, I will tell you why.
Pros and Cons of visiting Civita di Bagnoregio
1. Pro
Let’s start with the one benefit of the whole thing.
The panorama you enjoy arriving at Civita from the only access road, with the bridge suspended over the Valley of Calanchi, is priceless.
Although the Tuscia area is full of hilltop towns surrounded by enchanting countryside, Civita stands out because it is right in the middle of a valley that, with its colors, somewhat resembles the surface of the Moon.
Have you seen Civita di Bagnoregio in photos and fallen in love with it? What you will see with your own eyes is exactly identical to the photographs: a breathtaking landscape.
2. Con
Seeing Civita from afar is one thing. Reaching it is another. I believe you know that you have to cross a 300-meter-long pedestrian bridge, slightly uphill, to access the town.
You will have to rely only on your feet to do it. What not everyone knows is that to get to the bridge, you have to walk about 1 km. In fact, you will have to leave your private car or the local bus you came with in the parking lot far from the town’s access. If you or your travel companions have trouble walking about 3 km (round trip), I advise against undertaking this small feat.
You should also know that the route is not shaded, so prepare your hat in summer.
But do not despair if you really want to visit Civita di Bagnoregio: I will recommend a town that is definitely more worthy of your time.
3. Con
You must purchase a €5 ticket to enter the town. On busy days, the ticket office near the entrance bridge remains closed to prevent queues from forming.
Then you must purchase your ticket at the ticket offices in Bagnoregio.
4. Con
Civita di Bagnoregio survives only thanks to tourism. By this, I mean that the permanent residents of the town, which is accessed by crossing the bridge, are about 10. All the others live a few kilometers away in the town of Bagnoregio
It is there that you will find commercial activities, schools, services, and authentic local life. What you will see in the “suspended city” is a kind of film, a show for travelers.
That is why, to those who write to me for help in planning an off-the-beaten-path day trip, I rather recommend visiting nearby Calcata. It too rises on a scenic rocky spur, surrounded by nature, but it is a lively village, where walking through the piazza, you meet the locals. Instead, in the piazza of Civita di Bagnoregio, you will only meet tourists.
5. Con
Now that you know that Civita di Bagnoregio, the postcard town, is practically uninhabited, you might tell yourself: well, it will be the perfect destination for a retreat of calm and meditation, like a hermitage.
So let me reveal right away that it is not so: the village experiences massive tourism: every day tourist buses full of curious travelers arrive here. Therefore, I do not recommend it even if you are looking for solitude.
6. Con
Now that the word about the unique landscape of this village has spread around the world, the prices of apartments and B&Bs are quite high compared to other towns near Rome.
Even restaurant prices are high, also due to the inconvenience of accessing the village and thus transporting products.
7. Con
Visiting Civita di Bagnoregio on a day trip from Rome is quite tiring. There is no train station in Civita, and it takes 2 hours to reach it by car. You should consider planning a visit to Civita if you are spending a few days in Viterbo or on Lake Bolsena. It is indeed more reasonable to think of Civita as a trip from Viterbo rather than from Rome.
To reach Civita from Viterbo, you need to travel about 30 km, while the distance from Rome is 120 km. So, I renew my invitation to discover Calcata, the town of artists about 60 km from Rome, instead of the not-so-easily-accessible Civita di Bagnoregio.
Wrap-up
Although my visits to Civita di Bagnoregio have given me some lovely emotions, I must acknowledge that it is not the most beautiful and unique village to visit near Rome. Getting there is very inconvenient, even to be discouraged for those who do not like walking or aren’t quite fit,, and obviously for those traveling with small children.
The biggest disappointment I have with this town is that it is somewhat a stage set for tourism purposes. There is not much authentic to be found on top of this picturesque rock spur.
So head to other destinations in the countryside near Rome, those that truly take you off the tourist routes.